I’ve always thought Bulleit Bourbon a good whiskey, wholly approachable and flavorful sipped neat; minerally and dusky poured on the rocks. Just pleasant, no quibbles with it. But I bought other whiskeys I liked for the same price or even less. Sometimes much less. I have to say that I never sent my wife out for a bottle of it.

Bulleit Barrel Strength Bourbon, however, is a different animal.

Last year I was part of a press group touring the old Stitzel-Weller distillery in Shively, Kentucky, and while going through a basic tasting of the Bulleit line our guide…