Let’s get something out of the way: no, the title of this review doesn’t contain a typo. This whiskey really is labeled “single malt bourbon.” As you might guess based on that seemingly oxymoronic nomenclature, this whiskey is one of the weirder things I’ve ever been asked to review—or, not the whiskey itself, exactly, but its whole deal.

I’ll zoom out a little. Whiskey Hollow, the purveyor of this mysterious juice, more or less resembles other small distilleries: they sell a range of unaged spirits and a couple of briefly barrel-aged expressions. They have a tasting room and offer distillery tours on the town square…